Friday, February 24, 2023

USA Canyons - Guest contributor Peter Kabanoff

 

USA Canyons  - Guest contributor Peter Kabanoff


A big thank you to Peter Kabanoff, a participant on our recent USA Canyons Photography Tour. Great site-up Peter :-)

Words and Images - Peter Kabanoff

2024 Tour now open for bookings. Click here for details.


I told Mark some time ago that if he ever did a Monument Valley workshop I would be the first one to sign up, a place I have wanted to see for as long as I can remember.
When I received the introductory email for the workshop it was headed with, “You asked for it….Here it is” and I booked my place by return email.
Next thing I knew it was here. Left Sydney on a 10 am flight on 22/09 and after a twelve hour flight, landed at LAX at 6am on 22/09, 4 hours earlier than when I left Sydney. Had the day to myself as the the introductory get together was not till 4 pm. Strolled down to Venice Beach and wandered around for a few hours, then back to the motel. 





Spent a cuple of hours relaxing and checking all my gear before the afternoon get together.
We all met around the pool, introduced ourselves then had quick run through of the itinerary, then agreed to meet down at the the Italian restaurant at the beach at 7pm. Went down an hour early with some members of the groupto get some sunset shots before dinner, then off to the restaurant.




After a magnificent meal, we headed back for a good night’s rest.
Next morning after breakfast, we all piled into the van and hit the road. Lucky to be heading out of town as the freeways were all packed with cars coming in.

Drove out through Palmdale out to Mojave, where we had our first sightings of the famous Joshua trees. Stopped for a coffee break in town, opposite the huge Mojave Wind Farm, the 2nd largest onshore wind project in the world, with approx 600 wind turbines operative, combined with a large array of solar panels.




After lunch we headed off to our first major stopover, Death Valley National Park.
Amazing scenery everywhere, large variety of landforms, in every conceivable coulour. Had a number of photo stops along the way, a really magnificent bluff, then a beautiful stretch of Joshua trees.







Met a couple of  really friendly guys from the Harley Davidson Black Sheep Christian Motorcycle Club when we stopped for lunch. Lots of changes of scenery as we headed off again,then had a stop when we caught our first glimpse down into Death Valley. Stopped at a couple of lookouts on the way down, absolutely blown away by the road down into the valley, from about 4000 feet altitude right down to below sea level….awesome!












A family of coyotes pulled us up as we crossed the valley floor and demanded that we take their pictures, we grudgingly complied (haha), then continued on to Furnace Creek, our next stopover. Temperature rose into the low forties as we arrived. Went to our cabins and unpacked, then Off to Zabriskie Point for a sunset/night shoot. Back to Furnace Creek for dinner, then off to bed before an early rise for a sunrise shoot at the Mesquite Sand Flats.







Sunrise shoot was absolutely spectacular, helped by a few wisps of cloud after blue skies the day before. Back for breakfast, followed by packing up and off on the next leg. Saw a roadrunner up on an air conditioner, presumably trying to break into the cool cabin to escape the sweltering heat. Numerous stops in Death Valley, including Salt Creek boardwalk, Golden Canyon, salt flats and Artists Drive.





 Amazing clouds today to enhance the stunning scenery, while the temperature kept rising up to about 47 degrees. Back to Furnace Creek for lunch, then out to Badwater, the lowest point in the valley, 282 feet below sea level, followed by a quick stop at Ashford Mill ruins.







 Amazing scenery as we drove up out of the valley and headed off into Nevada and Las Vegas for the night. After a very hot, exhausting day we had a late dinner then everyone hit the sack.
Great breakfast at the casino, then off for Zion NP. Stopped at Mesquite for a coffee break, then off again.
Lots of amazing and varied scenery along the way with many stops. Lunch in a park then more stops as we headed off to Zion.



Checked into the motel, then up to Zion Canyon to catch the shuttle bus up past Zion Lodge to the Grotto, for some photos, then then walked up to Weeping Rock for for a sunset shoot.







Back down to the car by  a very amusing shuttle bus journey, hosted by Tim the driver, lots of jokes and great commentary.  A late dinner at Wild Willies, before retiring for the night.
Up early for a Sunrise shoot behind the Zion visitor Centre, then off to breakfast. 

Packed up our gear then headed off to Bryce, having to take an alternative route as there had been a large rockfall which had closed the main road through the canyon. Drove up to Kolobs Canyon, amazing scenery once again, then met one of their beautiful, hairy, hand sized tarantulas.






Started climbing up into the higher mountains, where we caught our first glimpses of beautiful Autumn colours in the trees. Topped the rise at about 9,900 feet (just over 3000 metres).







Once again, beautiful cloud formations followed us for most of the day. Stopped off at mirror lake, admiring a hungry squirrel along the path as we approached the lake. Stunning reflections in the water, surrounded by beautiful Autumn colours, a fisherman, his dog, and a couple relaxing in chairs, enjoying the peace and quiet.




 Lunch at a little roadside cafe, then off to Bryce. Saw our first hoodoos soon afterwards, then drove out to Bryce Point for our first view into the canyon. Absolutely, breathtakingly beautiful, almost unbelievable.....some much more than I expected, one of the major highlights of the trip for me. Then a few miles down the road to our motel in Tropic, then back to Sunset Point overlooking the canyon for our evening shoot. This was the night before full moon,  and we got some nice shots of the canyon with the moon over.
Next morning, up early and out to Sunrise Point. Indescribable........stunning light, stunning scenery, an amazing photo whichever way you looked. An amphitheatre bathed in golden early morning rays to our right, the whole valley stretched out in front of us, hoodoos glowing as they became backlit as the sun rose, very hard to tear ourselves away.





After breakfast went to the Visitors Centre, then spent the rest of the morning exploring many of the vantage points around the rim.
Amazing scenery everywhere, arches and balancing rocks, plus the odd chipmunk, and a number of turkey vultures, squirrels and a variety of birds. 









After a late lunch, we headed back to sunset point to get ready for the rise of the full blood moon, followed by a total eclipse, then some star shots. Amazing to watch the orange moon rising slowly from the horizon, and then watch it slowly disappear into the earth's shadow for a short while, then slip back into view. A very special evening.







No sunrise shoot the next after the late night so after breakfast we headed straight of Arches NP. Once again an astonishing variety of landforms, colours, clouds, non stop sensory overload.





Through Escalante, then an amazing stop at Head of the Rocks, with a 180 degree view across a huge valley to the 3000 metre high mountains on the horizon. Coffee at the Kiva Koffee house, across the valley, then a stop at the Anasazi State Park Visitor Centre. Ruins of the early Indian inhabitants, a museum and gift shop, bought another t-shirt and a book of native tales for the grandkids. 





Then off up into the mountains again, with the beautiful Autumn coloured aspens as we passed by Boulder Mountain, through ever hanging landforms, with numerous stops, including a small timber schoolhouse, perched under a huge bluff, with a fantastic natural face in the cliffs beyond.








A short way down the road an old abandoned house backed by an amazing cliff-face, stunning! 





Past some more old empty buildings then a another spectacular Mesa. Across a large valley then another spectacular mountain range, then on to Moab and our motel. Then off down into the canyons for a sunset shoot. 





Amazing clouds once again, and another beautiful moonrise
Next morning off to Arches Visitors Centre, then off to various spots around the park. 






Balancing rocks, amazing arches, landforms, walking tracks and a poodle in a pram. Delicate Arch plus dozens more, great variations of landforms and great clouds again, a huge balancing rock, couldn't ask for anything better. After lunch a drive out to Canyonlands NP for some more great shots. Then, for me, possibly the most amazing view of the whole trip, standing on a rock ledge, with a 600 to 700 drop straight, and Shafer Canyon stretched out for miles before me, basked in late afternoon sunshine - absolutely blew me away.  Changing light every minute, could hardly look away. 





Then up to Mesa Arch for sunset for some beautiful shots, including a shot that Mark had been dying to take for a long time.


 Next morning we headed off for Monument Valley. Stopped to see the amazing Bluff Fort, where a group of Mormons had made their way down through the Grand Canyon to establish a settlement. Watched a movie which depicted the historical enactment of their journey, then looked around the fort, which contained many of the original buildings, wagons and other belongings of the original settlers. 




Then another magic dirt road drive past unending monument rock forms out to the Goosenecks, where the Colorado River carves amazing landforms as it winds its way down to the Grand Canyon. 






Back to the highway passing Mexican Hat, then the stunning approaches to Monument Valley, arriving at the stunning View Hotel, where every room has a small verandah the looks straight up the valley. A beautiful sunset shoot, once again enhanced by great clouds and a great dinner to finish off the day.





Great sunrise shoot from the hotel next morning, then after breakfast a great drive down into the main valley. Past the Three Sisters and then a stop at the Navajo centre to buy some jewellery, then some great shots with a Navajo horseman on the end of a ledge, overlooking the magnificent valley.





 Then up to Artist Point Overlook, then worked our way around the circuit drive and back to the hotel for late lunch. 





Out to Horseshoe Bend for a sunset shoot, absolutely stunning, with some astonishing clouds again.



Next morning an early breakfast, then out to the Slot Canyons for a tour of 4 canyons with our own Navajo guide, --------------, who often stopped to play some native music on her flute as we photographed. A truly magic day in the fantastic canyons.





Then a quick drive across to the Grand Canyon, arriving at Desert View watchtower just after sunset, for our first views into the canyon.
Next day after breakfast we went off to the Visitor Centre then spent a few hours exploring the Canyon rim vantage points





Back to our hotel for lunch then off to the IMAX theatre for a great movie about the original native inhabitants, and the eventual exploration of the river and canyon - exceptional!
A short rest then back to the rim for some fantastic sunset shots.





Early morning back to the rim for sunrise. Found a magic spot, some nice clouds - another magic morning. 





Back to the hotel for breakfast, then packed up and headed off to Las Vegas.
A quick stop at Hoover Dam then off to the Tuscany Casino to unpack. 





Walked down to the strip for dinner, then some of spent the next few hours exploring. A really amazing walk around a city a never in my life I expected to go to. The dancing water shows at the Bellagio were the outstanding highlights. Walked around Venice, then past the Eiffel Tower, and back to my room just before midnight.





Last day of the trip and the long drive back to Los Angeles. Great stop at Peggy Sue's 1930's diner along the way.





Great farewell dinner at the Killer Shrimp restaurant, followed by farewells all round.
Next morning more farewells as we all went our separate ways. My plane didn't leave till 10:20pm, so I took the bus tour of LA, then a great walk from Santa Monica back to Venice. 

Picked up my luggage the off to the airport.



Overall, without doubt the best workshop I've been to, the most amazing range of scenery, great weather, superbly organised by Mark and David and great fellow travellers. Met and talked to many people from all over the world, a really great enhancement to the whole experience for me. 

I came to realise that it's not just getting a whole bunch of awesome photos, it's really all about the journey.

2023 Tour now open for bookings. Click here for details.