Here.....we are.....in the wilds of the Kimberley - Coming again July 2017

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Special guest writer, Roz Zito, looks back over our recent Trekabout Photography, Kimberley Photography Adventure. Thanks Roz,  for a wonderful account of our groups amazing time in the wilds of the Kimberley.

Here.....we are.....in the wilds of the Kimberley

by Roz Zito.

High res video can be viewed here.


Tuesday 18.8.15. The check-in chick strictly told the man before us to weigh his cabin baggage. Eeeeeek! What about our photographic gear? It weighs a ton! Luckily we got a girl who was in a hurry to go check everyone onto the plane, and she didn’t ask to weigh anything. Phew! 

We checked into our accommodation at Kununurra and went to the meet and greet, everyone sitting round in a circle, strangers about to become close friends as we shared an intense photographic experience. At 5.00 p.m. we headed off to do a sunset shoot over the lake. I learnt a lot about my new Sony a7R Mk 11 from Mark Rayner. I am a Canon girl but am finding the weight of all the gear quite difficult to manage as I get older, and am trying the lighter Sony. 

Wednesday 19.8.15. We departed at 7.30 a.m. after an early breakfast and drove to Emma Gorge along the Gibb River Road, with the spectacular Cockburn Range in the background. We had a number of stops along the way to photograph fabulous Boab trees with stunning red ranges and tumbled ferrous boulders as a backdrop. In our car we had Mark and Bill who were great fun, and the time passed swiftly.

We stopped and hiked up to Emma Gorge. The walking was very arduous with big rocks tumbled about in the approach to the gorge. Judy and I, with knee problems, soldiered on manfully but did not make it all the way to the waterfall. The mountain goats of our party disappeared swiftly and later showed their beautiful waterfall shots from the top of the gorge. We were happy, however, to have made it into the beautiful gorge with its stunning contrasts of rich red cliffs with green palms and deep blue sky. The group returned to the picnic area where there were many interesting birds to photograph, and ate tasty salad wraps which Mark had prepared. When I offered to go with Michael to get coffee, Sarah suggested iced coffee. Those long iced coffees with ice-cream really hit the spot for hot, tired hikers!

We set off happily for Home Valley Station where we were to spend three nights. When we got onto the dirt road it was extremely rough, with jolting corrugations and deep wide wash-aways which allow floods to run across the road in the wet season. The wide Pentecost River provided a challenge with its rocky bottom and water up to the axles, but we traversed it in style. Mark said joyfully, ‘Here…. we are… in the wilds… of the Kimberley!’ At reception a sign read: ‘Road conditions: “Bumpy!” ’ Welcome to the outback!

We were shown to cabins with much appreciated air-conditioning and fans. Soon we were off again to the Pentecost River for a sunset shoot. The red bluffs on the other side of this wide waterway glowed richly in the golden light of the setting sun, and amazing photos were taken. A buzzing noise set in. I began to wonder if the Kimberley had extra-large, pesky mosquitoes – but no, it was Mark’s drone! He sent it downriver, incredible footage streamed to his phone which he then set to music - most impressive.  

At dinner the food was good but the portions enormous! I had a half serve of ribs, it was huge. Mark had a full serve which was gigantic, hanging over the edge of a massive platter.

Thursday 20.8.15. Home Valley Station.  We got up at 5.00 a.m. to go on a bird shoot along Bindoola Creek right next to the camp. It provided an excellent variety of interesting and sometimes rare bird species. Back in camp we hurried through breakfast and jumped in the car to go to El Questro Gorge. No time to get organised or make sure we had the photographic equipment we needed – I’m finding it difficult to keep track of all the gear! El Questro Gorge was a jumble of jagged rocks – and that was just the approach! It was a photographer’s dream with spectacular red cliffs contrasting marvellously with white-trunked gums and the rich green of beautiful palm trees lining the gorge. 

It was broiling hot, 34 degrees, and when you are slogging up a hot, dry valley filled with rocks, you sweat buckets! I paused for a few gulps of warm water and took photos of the stunning rich red cliffs against a remarkable deep blue sky. We reached a pool - not the halfway pool we were aiming for, but the water was crystal clear. The tumbled rock bottom showed as if through glass. Pam went in for a dip. Afterwards she took great shots of the pool with its backdrop of stunning red cliffs. Pat enjoyed cooling off in the cold water and Cath paddled, taking photos from a different perspective to get the richly coloured rock face. Mark says she has a great eye for the small things and she pointed out jewel-like beetles which I had walked past head down, trying to keep my footing! Mark set his drone going. There was no signal so it was hard to control but he got some great footage. I am the not yet decrepit traveller, but decrepitude is moving in on me, so I turned back there, knowing it would take me ages to negotiate the rocks. The ones who went all the way in with tripods to take photos in the darkness of the gorge were the last out, bright red from exertion but with amazing photos. The scenery is spectacular, like nothing else on earth - a photographer’s paradise.

We drove to Jackeroo’s Waterhole for lunch. It is a beautiful, tranquil spot under welcome shade trees. We were instructed by Pam not to go close to the water where crocodiles lurk. Mark and Pam laid out the makings and we all made our own wraps at Michael’s suggestion. It was a good idea that saved time, and we were happy to choose our fillings.  

We returned to Home Valley Station over the rattle of corrugations and the swoop and thump of the big wash-away depressions in the road. 

We arrived at 3.30., a quick freshen up and at 4.30 off again for a sunset shoot. We drove down another rough track with very sandy patches – definitely 4WD country. Our destination was a great vantage point, with three spectacular bluffs of red stone across the wide river.  Michael offered to give us instructions for sunset photography. I waited for that, then off to the river bank to find others had secured all the best spots. I ended up with my tripod legs sinking into the mud.  However, Michael’s suggestions worked a treat. I put the camera on manual and set ISO 100, Aperture 16, then altered the shutter speed such that the right amount of light got into the camera. I found it easy and controllable. I’ve always been nervous of manual so it was an excellent exercise for me. 

We returned to Home Valley Station and had ¾ hour before dinner. I hurried around charging batteries and washing clothes, organising our gear and hanging things up to dry, while Pat lay on the bed and read MY book! I really can’t complain, he is truly supportive and helps with my heavy gear on all of the hikes. We had excellent fillet steak for dinner. A whip-cracking exhibition was held, a very skilled performance. We all retired to bed, exhausted. 

Friday 21.8.15. Home Valley Station: 37 degrees and a hot wind! After coffee we went out for a bird shoot. We really enjoyed it, right in front of the tents the grass was teeming with crimson, red-browed and double-barred finches feeding on seeds. 

We did not have to walk far to a pretty gorge at Zebedee Thermal Springs, lined by Livistonia palms.  At El Questro Wilderness Park and Moonshine Gorge there were crocs and reptiles – photographic opportunities aplenty.

 After returning at 3.00 p.m. it was time to go out for the sunset shoot at 4.30. A scramble to get tripods and put mounts on the cameras, then off we went to a great location with lovely views down the river to the ranges, those incredible reds deepening as the sun went down. 

We returned and rushed off for an early dinner. As we hurried over to the restaurant we met Esther rushing back excitedly. She said something about going to get her camera because there was a giant chestnut breasted something…….neither of us heard her properly. I thought maybe it was a chestnut breasted manikin, so I scooted back to get my camera and we arrived at the spot where Esther was snapping away….only to find she was taking shots of a giant chess set they have in the garden! I refrained from laughing at my mistake lest Esther think I was laughing at her, and now have a photo of a giant chess set.

 A very good country and western singer sang during dinner. It was impossible to hear anyone speak, but two young people entertained us all with lifts and swoops and all sorts of fancy moves as they danced. Our group then went off for a star shoot, driving to the place where we had taken the three red bluffs at sunset. When we arrived, local people were partying around the fire on the flat space we had used for our sunset photography and had planned to use for the star shoot. They were very pleasant about us traversing their circle, but we had to set up our tripods as best we could on the crumbling edges of the bluff. It was a bit more difficult but we managed, and with the expert advice of Michael, Mark, and Pam, we took photos across the Pentecost River with the red range in the foreground. The Milky Way and a myriad stars sparkled in a midnight blue sky. Using 30 second exposures brought out every star. It was incredible to see how many were not visible to the naked eye but showed up with the longer shutter speed absorbing every atom of light. We returned to camp, packed up ready to move on next day, and fell into bed.   

Saturday 22.8.15. It seems hotter every day, although today was ‘cooler’, 36 degrees. We went to breakfast early then packed up our stuff, loaded it into the car at 8.00 a.m. and headed towards the Bungle Bungles. At the wide crossing of the Pentecost River we stopped to watch people traversing the river, caravans lurching from side to side over the rocks. A few lairs pushed up a bow wave which Mark said would end up with them losing their number-plates. One guy, crossing on his motorbike, carried all his packages across on foot despite the risk of crocodiles, in case his bike went over and it all got dunked in the river. There was a great pile of packages along the side of the track by the time he eventually went back for the bike and bumped across without incident. He wore a T-Shirt proclaiming ‘Adventure before Dementia’ - I want one! 

Passing the Carr Boyd and Saw Ranges, we enthusiastically stopped for photos of boab trees and red escarpments. We had lunch at Warmun (Turkey Creek) Roadhouse – out under the trees at the picnic table, making our wraps from salad and tinned tuna or chicken. I bought superglue for my boots – the sole was coming off! There were whistling kites circling and some of us took great photos. We drove on, taking the 4WD track into Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) National Park.

We were expecting a very rough track in, allowing 3 hours to do the 57 kilometres trip. Compared to the road to Home Valley Station, however, it wasn’t too bad and we were all pleasantly surprised. It was pretty rugged even so, with lots of creeks to cross plus corrugations, rocks and bumps in the road. At one point a sign warned us not to cross without low-geared 4WDs. ‘Here…. we are…..in the wilds…..of the Kimberley!’ chanted Mark happily. We got out to check the water level and loose red sand of the creek bed. ‘Hmmmm……..shall we cross? Yes, let’s go for it!’ The water was fairly deep but Mark advised a low setting for our Pajeros, and we forged through without any problems. 

We arrived at last, finding our accommodation to be curved, corrugated iron huts - like the migrant hostels of yesteryear called Nissan huts. They were SO HOT inside from the heat of the day! I felt hideously hot and sweaty, and whinged as I unpacked. Hubby of more than 40 years got in a stink.     I told him, ‘I’m not expecting you to fix it! Just listen and sympathise – then I’ll feel better!’ We had hardly unpacked when we were off to do the sunset shoot. We went to a lookout point but it was full of tourists. We had to go to another spot with trees, prickly spinifex, dead sticks and bushes in the foreground. Sarah and the other fit ones charged off and vanished over the horizon, trying to get a good viewpoint. Bill climbed up the rock outcrop behind us and got the best shots of all. I can’t bush bash or climb rocks anymore, so I did the best I could and enjoyed the colour of the rocky range which was amazing as the sun set.

We returned to our quarters and got ready for dinner, rushing around trying to shower in a trickle of intermittently hot water, wash hair and put on fresh clothing. We joined the others for a drink at the bar. Dinner was very good, simple comfort food – roast lamb, a potato bake, green veg and orange veg. They had pudding, served with a generous dollop of cream. I really enjoyed my meal and felt much better. We returned to our room which was cooling down. Thank goodness it cools a lot at night-time out in the desert. We slept pretty well with the fan going.  

Sunday 23.8.15. The hard-working people who run this bush camp said that the weather starts warming up now, even though it is still theoretically winter, and today is boiling hot, 37 degrees. First we went to the Beehive formations of Piccaninny Creek. The scenery was stunning and I took my first panoramas, something the Sony does superbly. Then we hiked into Cathedral Gorge, 3km, 1 to 2 hours for normal walkers. It was easier going being mostly flat rock, unlike the tumbled rocks we’d encountered until now.

I left out the shorter Domes Walk and headed off with my walking poles, determined to get into the gorge. It was a struggle and took three hours, but I made it! I was very proud of myself. The Cotton Carrier harness was great and held my camera steady as I lurched up and down steps and scaled rocks. When I finally arrived, everyone else was sitting on the far side of a limpid pool shaded by a lovely rock arch in extraordinary shades of red and ochre. We did a lot of HDR because the parts in the sun were extremely blown out by the harsh sunlight. I told Mark I had forgotten how to process the HDRs and he said, ‘Rozzie!’ in despairing tones - but so nicely, I did not feel crushed! 

I headed back. The national parks provide picnic tables under shade which was most welcome. Sarah said she nearly had a heatstroke because she and Bill sprinted off, did the Domes walk, then Cathedral Gorge, then the lookout on the way back – 4 hours of fast hiking in the heat.

We drove straight to the helicopter field for our flights. The others went first and we ate lunch. Then it was our turn. We had the doors off and shot out of the side of the helicopter. I had a touch of vertigo looking out and down with the doors off while swooping over the Bungle Bungles - but that was soon overcome by the joy of photographing these awesome monoliths in all their glory. I had no idea they covered such a large area - photos I’ve seen show only a fraction. They are incredible and so very ancient. It really was a privilege to witness these stunning formations from above. We were struck by how closely aboriginal paintings echo the striations and dots of colour across the rocks. The helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles was one of the most memorable experiences of my life.   

From there we went back to camp for a short rest and shower.

It was great to be clean again! Mark checked to see why my download was not working. The Sony A7R Mk 11 has only just been released and my Lightroom cannot support it. I’ll have to wait until we get to Hall’s Creek where we should get an internet signal. In the wilds…..of the Kimberley.....there is no internet and no phone signal - quite a challenge for us all in this modern age.

For our sunset shoot we went to photograph a lovely intense red range, but there was too much undergrowth in front. Sarah galloped off into the distance to try to find a good clear vantage point. She came back cross, tired and spinifexed, saying that it was impossible to find a clear foreground.

Dinner was enjoyable - plain home-cooked Aussie tucker followed by a yummy sticky date pudding with cream and a toffee sauce. Mark and Esther got theirs in soup bowls - with more sauce! Esther’s idea - very cunning! We have all been doing a lot of walking and theoretically should be losing weight, but we hungrily tuck into the good food and I daresay we have no hope. 

After dinner we went out for a star shoot. The people in the Nissan hut next to us were very bemused by our feverish activity. Every time we saw them they were sitting on their verandah having a drink and relaxing with the little toddler running around naked. Every time they saw us, we were sprinting to our hut to change gear and go out yet again! I began to envy them.

We stopped at one place Mark thought would be lit by the moon, but it wasn’t and the moon is now about 1/3 so it spoiled the star shoot with too much light. We looked for another place and finished up at Elephant Rock. Sarah and Bill vanished into the distance off to the right. I knew why – to get the Milky Way side on, with Elephant Rock in the foreground. Sadly, I could not walk that far through the bush in the dark. We found what we thought was a good spot. It is amazing how the camera on 30 seconds and aperture wide open picks up such colour in the rocks, as well as the midnight blue of the sky and more stars than we could see with the naked eye! Both of us were very satisfied until I shone the torch in front of us and realised we had dead white sticks right in the middle of our shots! You could not see them in the dark or on the back of the camera, but when I looked hard, I realised they came out as black sticks rather than white ones. Drat – but it was too late and time to go.

We got back to our hut which had fortunately cooled down, and packed till 11.00 p.m. I set the alarm because Pat couldn’t find his phone. (It turned out to be where he had left it to charge!) Sarah was getting up at 4.00 a.m. and doing a sunrise shoot with Mark, Bill, Pam and Esther, but I had ruled it out - too old, too tired!  I set the alarm for 7 a.m. Pat was happy to go along with my call. 

Monday 24.8.15. My phone went off at 5 a.m.! Sleepily we decided to get dressed and go birding. There is a great little spot where double-barred finches, honeyeaters and other birds come down to drink. We quickly donned our clothes - it was really cold.  Annette, a keen birder, was already in place. We got some very nice shots. Sarah, Bill, Esther, Pam and Mark came back, saying the sunrise was probably the best shoot of the whole trip - and I chose not to go. Typical.

After a hearty breakfast, off we went at 8.00 a.m. to Echidna Chasm. Pam said what she remembered about it was that it had pebbles, so I wasn’t expecting it to be easy. Pebbles! The entire river bed was a tumble of wobbly, rounded river rocks. I really wanted to see Echidna Chasm, having heard a lot about it, so I struggled on. Cath was lingering, seeing the beauty in small things. From time to time I caught up with her, then she outstripped me, then I overtook her. Judy of the two knee replacements had not gone into Cathedral Gorge, so she was determined to get to Echidna Chasm. It’s only 2 km but takes 1 to 2 hours return for a healthy person with normal knees. I continued to struggle forward over the treacherous pebbles and met brave Judy coming back. She said the mouth of Echidna Chasm was just around the corner. That was all the encouragement I needed, I positively sprinted for it! I was delighted to get photos of the extraordinary colour of the rock face on one side of the dark, narrow chasm. Getting to the mouth of the chasm was worth it. I decided to be happy with that and head back. It was midday and extremely hot work. I finally made it out and slumped at a table to recover, sipping my now hot water. We began the makings of lunch.  The tiny little flies just love to get stuck into one’s sweaty bits and had a good burrow into my hair parting. Yuck! I think they are called sweat bees. Mark’s netting swathed hat, bought in Alice Springs, came into its own! I had to use Bushman’s then struggled to get it off my fingers so it would not melt the plastic of my camera. We scrambled back into the cars and jolted over intense red roads, corrugations and creek crossings. Once on the bitumen, we made good time to Hall’s Creek.   

We arrived in Halls Creek and made our way to the Kimberley Hotel, finding our room to be spacious with lots of storage! I was delighted and immediately unpacked my bag completely, trying to find missing things like antibacterial gel, and setting aside our washing. Bill generously offered us his router to download from the internet. Pat had been told the internet at the hotel ‘hadn’t worked for years’, so he fell on the router with glee. We went in for a very good buffet dinner. Afterwards, with Bill’s router, Mark tried and succeeded in downloading the latest Lightroom for me. Pat was obsessed with checking his emails. We are all so dependent on the internet nowadays.

Tuesday 25.8.15. Dry and hot, 32 degrees in the morning and hotter in the afternoon. We got up at 6, a sleep in! We washed in the laundry. It is great having washing facilities and space in our room to lay everything out and get organised. We went to breakfast. Annette had decided to return home. Pam took her to the hospital yesterday and they say she has a severe chest infection. We gathered at the cars at 8.00 a.m. but there was quite a delay while the logistics of getting Annette home were sorted. Under a tree nearby was the bower of Great Western Bowerbirds, so I spent my waiting time taking shots of various birds coming in to tend to the bower by carefully placing bits of leaf and sticks. It looked immaculate but they fussed around like obsessed housewives. Unlike the Satin Bowerbird, lots of males tend the bower, some of them removing what the others have put in but not destroying it like some other bower birds do to their rival’s bowers. Mark thought maybe the juveniles put in an apprenticeship but the female only mates with the adult dominant male. 

Eventually, off we went to Palm Springs. It was a very pretty little spot. Pat and I took Big Bertha because I thought I might be able to get photos of birds. I spotted fairy wrens on a palm. I took a few shots with the Sony and was going to call Pat who had Big Bertha, when one of our party walked behind the palms and all the wrens flew off. That was the last we saw of them. Soon it was time to go, but a fair number of people were missing. Michael was saying that he regarded it as quite a risk Mark sending his drone up in this sort of country, if it came down you would never find it.  He went off to look for the others. It turned out Mark’s drone had come down, and they couldn’t find it. Sarah was the hero of the hour. She was birding in the vicinity and saw the drone, then heard it hit the cliff and was able to direct the searchers who succeeded in retrieving it. Mark was glad to have his expensive new toy back, slightly the worse for wear. 

We drove to China Wall, an amazing sight. It looks man-made, with gigantic square shaped sandstone boulders placed on top of each other. The formation winds off over the hill just like the Great Wall of China. We conjectured that it must have been formed by earth movement, after which softer materials and earth were worn away around the sandstone blocks until only the wall formation remained. Another, further away, wended its way along a ridge like a sleeping dragon. 

We returned via the Hall’s Creek indigenous art gallery and had a look. Bill bought a very attractive boab nut incised with a kangaroo. I spotted a painting I liked. It had a midnight blue background and the Milky Way, with stars scattered across as white dots. Pam told us the aboriginal people believe there is an emu in the Milky Way, and there in the painting was the emu shape. Pam works with indigenous people helping them train in order to find work, and she said they often lie out under the stars looking up at the emu in the Milky Way. I also liked that it was a reference to our star shoots over the past few days. We bought it and met the young artist. I asked permission to take her photo and will send a copy to her, keeping a copy with the provenance documentation.

We held a mini rebellion in the car, saying to Mark that we wanted to go to the bakery for lunch and Not Have Wraps! Afterwards we got a few necessities at the supermarket, a rare luxury. We all said farewell to Annette, who left at 1.00 p.m. on a charter flight to Kununurra. From there she had a flight to Darwin, then Sydney, then Adelaide, then home. She was not arriving till the following morning at 9.15, poor soul. We all felt very sorry for her. When Annette arrived home, she was diagnosed with pneumonia. We were glad she was safe at home despite the long journey. 

Wednesday 26.8.15. HOT! We were packed and ready early as usual, breakfast at 7.00, then we hit the road for Mimbi Caves. Turns out the word Mimbi means caves in the Girloorloo tongue so it is named ‘Caves Caves’. We drove with photography stops at the many visually stunning places on the way. Our guide Anthea led us towards the caves. The scenery was spectacular. Anthea showed us bush tucker and interesting items like aboriginal axes and knives made from stone. We were fascinated to see marine fossils and brain coral, because this was once an inland sea.  

At the entrance to the caves we found a pleasant shady clearing under trees with a campfire and chairs for us all - such a luxury! We sat down with a drink while Anthea explained safety in the caves. Helmets with headlamps were handed out for us to wear. I opted for the short easy cave with Judy, Cath, Pat, Michael and Don. Not far from the entrance was a huge boulder. Judy turned back at that point knowing she didn’t have enough bend in her prosthetic knee to get over it. I managed to scramble up with Anthea offering me a hand. I nearly pulled the poor woman down on top of me, but I made it! I was very glad I got into this beautiful little cave complex. Openings to the outside world cast light on beautiful coloured stone, while a lovely blue pool made for gorgeous photos. Michael taught us settings for good low light photos. I struggled to avoid blowout from light streaming in from an opening onto a beautiful little hidden valley. HDR was the best way to deal with that and I was really pleased with some of my shots. I just hope that I remember a modicum of how I got them! I am trying to make notes but the programme is hectic and it is really hard to keep track. 

After making our way back over wobbly stepping stones across a stream running through the cave, Michael kindly gave me a hand to step down from the big rock which prevented Judy from getting in. Then I was perfectly happy to sit on one of the chairs in the shade and chat to Judy. I didn’t even attempt to go into the other bigger and more difficult cave. The others took ages to come out, so I assumed it must be fascinating - but the reason for the delay was a place where only one person at a time could take a photo. Everyone said, after doing both, that ‘our’ cave was more interesting and pretty than the big and difficult one. I was glad I hadn’t missed anything spectacular! Finally we finished our cave visit and then trekked out again - a long walk in the heat. Anthea and her fellow guide Rose said that their tours of the caves were now tailing off because it was already too hot. 

We drove to Fitzroy Crossing from Mimbi Caves, stopping now and again to photograph red rock ramparts and ancient trees. ‘The Crossing Inn’ was basic but we were delighted to have air-conditioning and a fan, however creaky. A bird shoot was organised for the following morning. I decided to wimp out - I can’t clamber into the creek beds where the best sightings can be made and we are getting tired now after 9 days on the go – we left it to the young ones! 

Thursday 27.8.15. We were off to Geikie Gorge for a river cruise, the best thing we could be doing on such a boiling day. We photographed birds after breakfast, then packed up to move to Fitzroy River Lodge. We got to Geikie Gorge camping ground in time for lunch and trudged off down a hot dusty path to the river. Our indigenous guide was a character. He talked about his people’s habits and customs before we set off to the boat. I sat at the front with Big Bertha between my knees on a tripod to keep her steady. I did not hear our guide at the back of the boat saying a croc was there on a ledge and didn’t spot it till it moved like greased lightning. I only caught the splash! Drat. Our guide spotted crocs with ease, but we rarely saw one till he pointed it out. We saw many interesting birds, but the highlight of the cruise was the incredible colour and water-eroded formations of the rocky cliffs and bluffs edging the river. 

We pulled up at a boat ramp after about an hour and a half, tied up and got out. I took Big Bertha  because I thought we were staying on the bank, but it turned out we had to slog in broiling heat across red sand dunes to the base of a towering rock formation to look at a cluster fig. I could not manage the soft sand, so Pam stayed with me. After looking at the cluster fig the others began clambering up the rocky towers!

No way could I do that, but I was glad to have Big Bertha because I got good photos of everyone else on top. Pam helped me move the big lens down to the boat and I left it in the front seat for Pat to use. I’d had a turn in front so I sat at the back. From on top of the ramparts, the others enjoyed spectacular views, then climbed down and returned to the boat. We cruised back along the gorge as sunset lit the cliffs with a gorgeous glow. The full moon came out, adding an extra special something to our photos.

By the time we got to Fitzroy River Lodge, it was dark. We were in safari tents. Our tent had an evaporative cooler that roared and rattled. The bathroom was tiny. Somehow we managed to spruce up a bit and went to dinner. For the first time, we saw wildlife apart from birds – large mobs of wallabies feeding on the lawns in the dark. After dinner we retired to our tent where we got ready for bed and organised our gear for the following day in very limited lighting conditions. 

Next day we were packed up bright and early to drive to Broome, a long drive of some 330 km. We got a decent cappuccino at the bar which was very welcome! On the road we spotted quite a few wedge-tailed eagles feeding on road kill. Every time we stopped, they took off like lightning – very wary! In the end, Mark suggested I pop up through the sunroof with Big Bertha to get a shot. That worked much better – the eagles took off but I managed to get a few shots in beforehand. I forgot to dial the lens out to the max, so although the shots were clear, they needed a lot of cropping. I got about three decent ones of one eagle taking off and the other still on the kill. Then we saw another lot of wedgies. Mark stopped. I had organised BB at max extension and popped up. I got one cracker of a shot of the eagle taking off, those big fluffy bloomer-like legs stretched out behind him and wings fully extended – but it didn’t have the clarity of the earlier shots taken braced on the roof but not at full stretch of the lens! Curses. Michael caught up and later everyone laughed when they described seeing our car on the side of the road. ‘Is that one of our cars?’ They decided it was not, because there was something on top of the car. As they got closer, Sarah said from the back in surprised tones: ‘That’s my Mum!’   

We made it into Broome and checked in. We had holiday apartments with a washing machine, tick, dryer, tick, aircon, tick, and fan, tick! I was a happy camper. We did another quick turnaround and then had a sunset shoot at the famous Cable Beach, camels silhouetted against the setting sun. It was great having advice about how to get the best settings and we all got splendid photos. Pam picked a restaurant with excellent food. I chose an appetiser of scallops thinking it would be tiny. The ‘appetiser’ was lovely, fresh salad and avocado, perfectly cooked scallops with pork - but it was huge, as big as a main! My word, they eat a huge amount out there! By the time my main arrived with two big fillets of fish, heaps of chips and huge salad, I could only eat a fraction of it.

Next day we got up early to do sunrise shots and found ourselves on deep red sandy backtracks to a lovely beach. Mark chanted with his perennial good cheer, ‘Here….we are…..in the wilds…..of the Kimberley!’ I couldn’t resist a shot of his happy face and by chance caught Michael in the background.

We dropped off the gear at our accommodation and had a short walk to a little café for a pleasant brekkie. We then went to Gantheaume Point. There were ospreys in a nest up on the lighthouse. The baby was strengthening his wings and nearly ready to fledge, Michael said. I spent ages trying to get a shot of the baby flapping or the adults flying. The only time that happened was when I went to get sunscreen for my legs! Story of my life as a bird photographer. I did get some herons in a weird symbiotic relationship with the osprey nest, robbing nesting materials from under the baby osprey. I’m surprised the parent birds didn’t object. I spotted a piece of black driftwood which looked amazing against the red sand and blue sea with sky and clouds behind. I wanted a low vantage, but with my dodgy knee I cannot get up again! Instead, as Mark suggested, I used the tilt screen to see what I was getting while holding the camera down low. I ended up with a dramatic colour composition, sharp as a tack and well composed - I’m very happy with it.

We lunched at a kebab place Pam said was really good. It was very popular and crowded. I saw someone vacate a table so I said I would sit there to hold it while Pat ordered. I told him I wanted anything, as long as it was NOT A WRAP! Then Pam recommended the chicken, so that’s what I decided on. Pat went and ordered. Guess what I got? A WRAP!!! With very tasty chicken in it, but still, a wrap. Sigh. Pat had a salad. Our vegetarian daughter had a very nice meal of falafel and salad.

In the evening we went to Town Beach for a ‘Stairway to the Moon’ shoot of the full moon with reflections on the water leading to it. The moon was not quite full. Peter, Cath and Don were going to stay an extra night to capture the perfect alignment. We set up our tripods and waited. Crowds arrived to see this classic sight. Though the pathway of light to the moon was not complete, we did get some beautiful captures of sky, water and moon. Pat decided to sit on the rocks below us with the 7D, so I went from the Sony for landscape shots to Big Bertha for close-ups of the moon. 

Next morning was a nightmare. Our taxi to the airport, ordered THE DAY BEFORE, never came! I freaked out. Half an hour went by with many irate phone-calls to the taxi company, only to be told we were in a queue! We finally used another company and got there by the skin of our teeth. Mark asked how we were doing when he saw us waiting to check in. I gabbled out my tale of tension and drama. He gave me a calming neck massage. Now that’s service! Wish I had Mark’s stress-free personality. 

Our adventure was at an end, but we’ll never forget it and made many new friends along the way. Now to edit the 3,000 photos!